- Previous
- Next
MEET THE SOUS CHEF
MANNY CISNEROS, CHEF DE CUISINE, URBANO PIZZA BAR
"My mom is a hell of a cook," says Manny Cisneros, chef de cuisine at Urbano Pizza Bar in downtown Los Angeles. In fact, Cisneros comes from a long line of cooks. His grandfather owned three restaurants in Mazatlán, Mexico, and when the family relocated to Los Angeles, he opened El Parian, which is still open today, 44 years later.
The recipe Cisneros shared with Sous Chef Series, swordfish topped with a red chile pesto, reminds him of his Mexican roots. The pesto, made with dried guajillo and ancho chiles, citrus juice, garlic and pumpkin seeds, is bold and spicy, the perfect counterpoint to the mild fish. "This is exactly what I would feed my family or company," he says.
TRACK THIS CHEF
DAY IN THE LIFE
Day in the Life
The owners of Urbano are working on a handful of new projects, and Cisneros has his hands in all of them. A typical day is spent running around from place to place, from his house in L.A.'s Pico-Union district to nearby Urbano, then on to the next spot to check on construction. When he has a day off, he tries to go out for lunch--the recently opened spot Mochica, also downtown, is a new favorite.
TIPS & TECHNIQUES
Switch the Fish
If you can't find wild, line-caught swordfish, Cisneros says that any firm, white fish, such as mahimahi, albacore or a whole, small red snapper, can be substituted. The fish can be cooked on the stovetop in a grill pan, as instructed, or you can grill it on a gas or charcoal grill.
Know Thy Chiles
To make his pesto, Cisneros uses a combination of dried guajillo and ancho chiles. Guajillos are moderately spicy and slightly bitter; anchos are fruitier and more mild. The chiles must be soaked in hot water for 15 minutes to soften them before blending.
YIELD
4 servings (8 tacos)
INGREDIENTS
Chile Pesto
Dried guajillo chiles, 5 (stems removed and seeds discarded)
Dried ancho chiles, 3 (stems removed and seeds discarded)
Water, 1½ cups (boiling)
Extra-virgin olive oil, ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon
Pumpkin seeds (pepitas), ½ cup
Limes, 3 (2 juiced and 1 sliced into wedges for serving)
Cilantro leaves, ¼ cup
Red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon
Garlic cloves, 3 (roughly chopped)
Kosher salt, 1 teaspoon
Finely ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon
Swordfish
Swordfish, two 8-ounce steaks
Extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Corn tortillas, 8 (warmed for serving)
Avocado, 1 (halved, pitted and thinly sliced)
EQUIPMENT
Plastic wrap
Paper towels
Large plate
or
(or a medium nonstick skillet)
Serving platter
DIRECTIONS
1. Make the pesto: In a medium bowl, add the
- Guajillo chiles
- Ancho chiles
- Boiling water
Cover the bowl with a sheet of plastic wrap and set aside for 15 minutes. Use the tongs to transfer the chiles to a paper towel-lined large plate. Reserve ½ cup of the chile water and discard the rest.
2. In a small skillet set over medium heat, add
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- Pumpkin seeds
Cook, using the wooden spoon to stir frequently, until the pumpkin seeds are golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pumpkin seeds to a blender or a food processor and add the reserved, softened guajillo and ancho chiles, ¼ cup of the chile water and the
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- Lime juice
- Cilantro leaves
- Red pepper flakes
- Roughly chopped garlic
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
Process until the pesto is smooth, adding more of the remaining ¼ cup of chile water if needed to thin and smooth the mixture. Use the rubber spatula to scrape the mixture into a medium bowl and set aside.
3. Make the swordfish: Season both sides of the swordfish steaks with
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
Place a grill pan over medium heat and add the swordfish. Cook until marked from the pan, about 2 minutes. Use a spatula to flip the swordfish steaks over, cooking the other side until the fish is cooked through, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a cutting board and rest the swordfish for 5 minutes before slicing crosswise into 1-inch-thick pieces. Arrange the swordfish on the serving platter and serve with the chile pesto and the
- Warmed corn tortillas
- Avocado slices
- Lime wedges